Galettes des Rois

12 Spheres of Gluten-Free Brioche Make Up This Elegant Nourolles, or Regional Twist on a Galette des Rois.

Traditional French Kings' Cake in a Few of Its Many Iterations

I began this post back in December, originally setting myself a challenge of making three different French versions of galette des rois. I decided, in light of an upcoming move, to make one, more complicated version in early January; the easiest version the week of my move (late January); and the second most popular version in mid-February once I would be settled in.

Galette des rois is a pastry that begins to show up on shelves in French pastry shops and markets a few weeks before Christmas and New Years even though its season doesn’t technically start until January 6th, with the feast of The Epiphany. The occasions to eat it seem to continue through most of January.

For my ‘more complicated’ start, I went with a lesser-known version of the galette known as La Nourolles de l’Epiphanie (for which I cannot find a decent translation). This galette is specific to the department of La Manche in Normandy. La Nourolles de l’Epiphanie consists of a buttery brioche dough, rolled into 12 buns and baked together as one. To accomplish this in a gluten free form, I relied upon the brioche recipe from “Gluten-Free Artisan Bread in 5 Minutes a Day” by Zoe Francois and Jeff Hertzberg, M.D. The recipe as written, makes enough for 3 loaves. So, I made a half recipe and it filled my 9” x 2” cake pan perfectly! Following the original recipe’s temperature and just adding 5 minutes to the baking time works well. Dusting it with powdered sugar and adorning it with Fancy Sprinkles pink caviar gave it just the right “royal” and festive air.

The most popular version is made with puff pastry and frangipane (a decadent blend of almond paste and pastry cream). With each passing year, there are more spectacular versions made by the prominent patissiers in France. Luckily for the average home cook, as well as the gluten intolerant among us, it is rather easy to make the traditional version at home with just a little planning.

For those inclined to make their own puff pastry, you will have an exceptional treat that takes a bit more time. For those able to get frozen puff pastry, especially gluten free, this is too delicious a recipe to pass up. It takes a little time to make the pastry cream, but the rest is simple and the combination is divine. Making the pastry cream ahead of time makes assembly and baking a breeze.

To prepare:

Pastry Cream:

• 5 oz. Whole milk (Can sub non-dairy milk)

• 1 vanilla bean split and scraped or 1 teaspoon of vanilla extract

• 3 Tbsp. sugar

• 3 egg yolks

• 3 Tbsp. cornstarch (or sub with the starch of your choice)

• 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter

For the Almond Cream:

• 2 whole eggs

• 1 c almond meal/flour

• 1/2 c sugar

• 7 Tbsp. butter softened (cut into large pieces and left at room temperature for 30 minutes)

• 1 tsp rum

Also:

• 2 sheets of puff pastry of your choice (homemade: https://glutenfreeonashoestring.com/gluten-free-puff-pastry/) or store-bought: Schar

• 1 egg yolk (to brush on the top sheet of pastry)

• Water (to seal the edges of the pastry shut)

• Powdered sugar for dusting (optional)

Begin by making the pastry cream. If using a vanilla bean, split the pod lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. Add both to the milk, in a medium saucepan, heat gently for 3-5 minutes, and infuse for 30 minutes. If using vanilla extract, you can skip this initial step.

In a medium bowl, whisk the cornstarch and sugar together to blend and then whisk in the egg yolks (and vanilla extract if using) and beat until you get ribbons (the aerated egg mixture from the whisk or beaters resting visibly on the surface of the rest of the egg mixture) approximately 4 minutes.

Warm the milk and whisk it into the egg mixture bit by bit to temper it. Then pour it all into a heavy-bottomed saucepan on medium heat. Continue to whisk slowly over heat, in the saucepan as you bring it to a boil (about 3 minutes), and continue whisking more vigorously, for 1 minute at full boil.

Remove pan from heat, pour contents into a bowl to cool and cover surface with a bit of plastic or a smaller silicone lid to prevent a skin from forming.

The pastry cream can be made 2-3 days ahead and refrigerated.

Set the oven now to pre-heat to 350F (180C).

For the Almond Cream, in a stand mixer with paddle attachment or using a hand mixer, cream the butter and sugar together until pale yellow. Mix in the almond meal, then the eggs, and finally the rum until each is fully blended.

Add the pastry cream to the bowl of almond cream and mix together thoroughly. Your frangipane is now ready!

To assemble, roll out one sheet of puff pastry. You can leave it as a square as in the image below, or trim the corners to make it a more traditional circle. Spread the frangipane mixture over the bottom layer, maintaining a 1” border around all edges. If you are including a ‘feve’ or charm, place it in the frangipane now.

Roll out your second sheet of puff pastry and put it aside. Using your finger or a pastry brush dipped in water, brush or dab water around the 1” border of the bottom layer making sure to not miss any spots. Quickly but carefully, lay the second layer of puff pastry over the top and smooth down to eliminate any potential air pockets. Begin, gently but firmly, pinching the edges together. If you are using a square shape begin pressing from the center of each side and work your way out to the corners.

Using a paring knife, lightly score your preferred design into the top layer being careful not to perforate the dough. Brush the top layer with beaten egg yolk being careful to not let it drip down the edge of the pastry as it will tend to impede lift there.

Bake at 350 degrees F (180 C) for 45 minutes.

Galette des rois with Schar gluten-free puff pastry

The pattern in the puff pastry is achieved with the tip of a paring knife. You want to be careful to just score the top layer, and avoid piercing through. Traditionally the galette is round with a pattern of curved lines radiating from the center. Have fun and decorate with whatever makes you happiest.

The third galette was to be the second most popular variety in France, which comes from the Riviera and is an orange water-scented brioche ring adorned with candied fruits. This third version will be added before the end of this year.

Have you had a galette des rois before? Do you have a favorite version?